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Brew Logs (Cherry Robust Porter)

Taking the Mash Temperature

Taking the Mash Temperature

There are a lot of attractive reasons to brew a Porter.  Besides the obvious ones like how cool it would be to brew a beer people might actually want to drink more than one of, Porter gives you the chance to work on your maltiness while staying within the comfort zone of Ales,  giving a homebrewer the opportunity to branch out from more yeast and hop dominated flavor profiles.  Porter is one of my favorite styles of beer, from the simple British Style Porter to the heavier Baltic versions. A gift from my wife of a 3lb can of Oregon Cherry Purree coupled with a desire to explore Porter brewing cemented the idea in my head — a Cherry Robust Porter — a beer that could mix the aroma and flavor of cherries with the chocolatey, somewhat roasty qualities of Porters that I love.  Sounded like a good challenge.

I purchased a 55lb bag of Maris Otter for my base malt, and was able to locally source all of the other specialty malts (as in buy them locally, not find them in a locally produced form).  The cherries I already had, and for a nice neutral ale yeast, I chose to culture from a bottle of Bell’s, which I plan to reuse if this batch goes well.  I started a starter with the yeast from a bottle of Bell’s Pale Ale, and stirred it and shook it for about a week before I brewed.  A nice thick layer of yeast sediment built up in the flask, and I knew I was ready to go.

Mash Tun, Hot Liquor Tank, Boil Kettle

Mash Tun, Hot Liquor Tank, Boil Kettle

I still haven’t been able to test my outdoor brewing setup because of windy days and extreme cold, so I was back to the stovetop.  I started the day in a leisurely way, heating my mash water while I did some other cleaning.  All told, this was my smoothest brew session yet, again mostly a solo mission, and I feel like I really know my setup and procedure.

Here’s the full recipe:

Cherry Robust Porter for 5 Gallons

12# Maris Otter Pale Malt / 2# Munich Malt / 1# Black Patent / 1# Chocolate Malt / 1# Honey Malt

1.75oz Sterling Hops @ 60 mins

Mashed at 151 f (was aiming for 154), sparged with 6 gallons of 170 f water for 45 minutes.  60 minute boil.

Cooled down to 90 f in about 20 minutes due to some weirdness with hoses (fix this!), then covered and pitched the next morning at 64 degrees after a lot of shaking for aeration.  Moved back up to kitchen which is consistently 64 during the day (it’s cold) and vigiorous fermentation within 12 hours.  Smells very roasty and looks very dark so far — very excited.  Will move to secondary on the cherries when attenuation is about 65% or 70% complete.

OG 1.080, Target FG 1.015, Target ABV 8.5%

Infected Sessions (Brewery Ommegang Bier De Mars)

Mars!

Beer on Mars. by mrb

Brewery Ommegang is many things — a beautiful brewhouse on a former hop farm, the westernmost outpost of the Duvel Moortgat empire, host of the anual Belgium Comes to Cooperstown festival, and one of the staunchest upholders of traditional Belgian brewing anywhere in the world.  Ommegang is also one of the most widely distributed American Craft Breweries — it’s everywhere.  They make some excellent beers and some others that are a bit tame for my tastes, but after my experience with Bier De Mars, I think I’m going to go back and give them all another fair shake — it’s been a while.

Bier De Mars is a beautifully dry, low ABV reddish beer in approximately the Biere de Garde style.  Biere de Garde is a style akin to Saison – not wholly well defined, but recognizable when you see one.  Bier De Mars has the additional flavor and aroma profile which is contributed by the use of Brettanomyces Yeast, which gives an excellent musky aroma and a slight tartness on the palate.  This beer pours with a big, crackling frothy white head that releases a great deal of Brett aromas and a nice hint of malt as well — there is a nice amount of body up front, but as any good Belgian beer does, it finishes very dry.  Quite a digestible, sessionable beer that controls the use of Brett in an excellent way.  A bottle conditioned, corked and caged bottle, I think this would be a good beer to try and age — the character could really develop over time.  This beer definitely gives any other “Infected Sessions” beers (logo by Maya coming soon) a run for their money, and knowing that at certain times of the year I can get a champagne bottle full of this stuff for under $20 (in some cases, much less) is just awesome. For a brewery on the scale of Ommegang to produce a beer like this is not only gutsy, it shows a hell of a lot of just plain skill.  Score another one for New York, and embrace the wild yeast — let this infect your next session, you won’t be sorry.

Two Grumpy Old English Dudes (Great Divide Hibernation & Founders Curmudgeon)

Historical British beer styles are among the greatest benefactors of the American Craft Beer scene, as they were the first and the most widely accepted of the various International cultures to be ressurected, redefined, and essentially kept alive by the tenacity (read: insanity) of American Brewers.  While Belgian beers are more popular right now in terms of the vanguard of American Brewing, we still have the Brits to thank for our beloved session beers, our Milds, Bitters, Pale Ales, and for our first contributions to the “Ex****e Beer” movement like Double IPAs and Imperial Stouts.  The foundation of American beer as it pertains to England, coupled with the depth and breadth of British beer styles that are documented has lead to a long, slow synthesis process where some British beers become thoroughly American.  Other styles are so unique in their initial conception and so narrow in their historical context that while American versions may outnumber those produced in England by scores, they still struggle to remain thoroughly English.  Old Ale, also known as Stock Ale, is one of these styles.

I’ve only sampled a handful of Old Ales, but two recent examples by Colorado’s Great Divide and Michigan’s Founders have been going down really smoothly during these extreme days of cold winter in NYC.  Great Divide’s Hibernation Ale is a hoppier, more bold and American twist on the Old Ale, pairing a deep malty sweetness with a crisp and bitter bite of hops, with aromas of dark fruit and brown sugar swirling through the mix.  Something like a maltier, more amber Barleywine that pours a deep reddish brown is a good description, but Hibernation finishes in a pleasingly smooth, highly drinkable way.  A good step inbetween a Porter and a Barleywine, with a very intense depth of flavor that is very satisfying.  Founders Curmudgeon is an even more English version of the style, with a very sweet aroma, a chewey, full bodied texture, and less of a bold American hop finish.  More orange than red, and pouring with a creamy, tan head, Curmudgeon is a sipping beer that begs you to keep sipping with its alluring sweetness.  The finish is hardly cloying, balanced as it is with a decent amount of hop bitterness.  Curmudgeon seems like an old dude who’s been around, and who can handle being around for a lot longer — there are hints of candied citrus that compliment the heavy caramel quite well, like an old fruitcake he once gave you, and the Hibernation Ale is a bit more modern, but still thoroughly set in his ways.  Two excellent beers which are preserving the heritage of one of the greatest beer countries on earth — almost enough to make a hibernating curmudgeon smile.

Keepin’ it Wild (De Struise Struiselensis)

"Wild Beer" as imagined by Maya Miller

The Sturdy Brewers are making a lot of appearances on this blog, and for good reason — their beers are perfect.  For my recent birthday, Brew Dog t-bone recently brought me back a bottle of De Struise’s Struiselensis from Philly’s so-close-yet-so-far beer Mecca The Foodery, and I was almost as excited (I won’t say more excited) about the De Struise beer he gripped for me as I was for the Bell’s, and if you know me, you know that’s saying a lot.

Struiselensis is more than the “normal” excellent beers that De Struise brews — it is a beer nerd’s dream.  The label alone boasts both the name of the labaratory where the yeasts and bacteria were harvested (Wyeast), and the very varieties of flavor and aroma producing yeast and bacteria employed (Brettanomyces Bruxellensis and Pediococcus Cerivisae).  So back to the old back and forth of cultural exchange — Belgian brewes trying to replicate Belgian styles by relying on American scientific expertise — amazing.

Struiselensis takes its name from a strain of Yeast which originates from the area around Brussells in Belgium where a lot of spontaneous fermentation still occurs.  First isolated in Britian (hence the name Brettanomyces or “British Brewer’s Yeast”), Brettanomyces offers an alternative flavor and aroma profile of the prolific than the standard Saccharomyces Cerevisiae, of which both Ale and Lager types exist.  “Brett Beers” aren’t Ales or Lagers if they are made with 100% Brett — they are just “Brett Beers.”  I’ll be brewing one of these soon and will report here on how it comes out.  When combined with Bacteria which are known to reside in the Barrels and Bottles of such brewing giants as Cantillon, Brett produces extremely complex, earthy beers which completely alter the landscape of Beer tastes, period.  The Struise brewers apparently tried to spontaneously ferment this beer but found their atmospheric components lacking — hence the help from American Yeast Gods Wyeast.

A “Wild” or “Sour” Ale, Struiselensis pours golden and slightly cloudy, with a quickly dissipating white, fizzy head.  Very carbonated as these beers tend to be, the mouthfeel is perfectly dry, complemented by an acidic, tart flavor profile that makes Struiselensis extremely drinkable.  The aroma is hardly captured by the typical flurry of adjectives (”earthy,” “horsey,” “citrusy,” “rotten,” or “leather,” for the record), but can stand to be a pretty decent benchmark for the Sour Ale category and Brett aroma in general (a more citrusy and less hoppy Orval is almost appropriate).  An incredibly drinkable, scientifically miraculous, well-balanced, and yes, Sturdy beer, Struiselensis is a lesson, an experience, and if I had a keg of it in my basement I wouldn’t mind drinking it every night.

Drinking Christmas (De Struise Tsjeeses, Fantome Noel, Nøgne Ø Peculiar Yule)

Drinking Holiday Beer with Mr. Beer Santa

Drinking Holiday Beer with Mr. Beer Santa

Winter Beers aren’t really my favorite category — Winter Warmers, Christmas Beers, whatever you call them, they can be overspiced, cloying, and just plain weird when you get the wrong combination of ingredients together.  Unfortunately for me, my birthday falls in the heart of Christmas Beer season, and since birthdays are the time when you get together and make people buy you beers, I usually end up drinking a lot of them.  Fortunately for me, my friends are mostly beer geeks, and I spent my birthday at Spuyten Duyvil, not some shithole bar with no choices, so all of the christmas beers I drank that night were awesome.

The Sturdy Brewers from De Struise went for it with their Winter Beer and called it “Jesus.”  Sure, it’s actually Tsjeeses and is in Dutch, and has another meaning, but for me, it’s Jesus beer.  Like the other beers I’ve tried from De Struise, J-word presents an extremely complex package of flavor and aroma.  It pours a cloudy, thick yellowish/amber color, and smells positively heavenly as soon as you bring it to your grill.  I smelled oxidized sherry flavors, white wine and grapes, spicy, and sweetness.  Tasting it was a similar experience, with the characteristic malty Struise flavor, mixed in with ground spices and intense malt sweetness.  A bit of bitterness keeps this balanced for the most part, but it’s intense.  Worthy of the name for sure, and a hell of a way to keep warm in frozen NYC.

Fantome’s “Noel” beer is one of the few I haven’t had the chance to try that I know about, and I’m pretty sure I drank a fresh bottle, though I’m not sure.  It had a smoky, black appearance, and a smoky black taste.  A Dark Saison is a rare treat, and since Saisons are all that Fantome brews, that’s what we have.  Brewer and artisan Prignon likes to tuck special ingredients into his seasonal brews, and with this once I got lots of dry malt sweetness, the classic Fantome barnyard action, and a big hit of smokey chocolate.  Nice.  A Stout by way of Belgian Farmhouse un-Orthodoxy? Another wonderful Fantome creation and a great experience — a really wonderful bottle.

The Norweigan brewery Nøgne Ø’s Peculiar Yule rounded out the trio of Darkness that I entered into on my birthday night, and it definitely packed a hell of a wallop.  The first, second, and last thing you notice about this beer is the crazy amount of ginger on the nose and on the pallette.  Inbetween there is a rainbow of dark malt, deep fruit, and a nice hit of bitterness as well.  Normally I wouldn’t be so craazy about such a spicy beer but this really hit the spot — it was dry enough, weird enough, and drinkable enough that I could really get into it.

Spuyten Duyvil did a public service by highlighting so many excellet Winter Beers (and giving me a great reason to take a year off from drinking them), and as usual I was rewarded for trying things I “wouldn’t normally” drink.  I drank a lot of beer on my birthday night/weekend/week — more to come from the “first of 09″ selections.

My Year in Beer 2008

2008 will by default always be my best year in beer, being that it was the first year that I fully dove into the madness of craft beer obsession.  I sampled an insane amount of amazing beer this year for the first time — making my way through all of the Belgian Trappist beers, sampling examples of West Coast IPAs, battling against various gigantic Stouts and Barleywines, and learning the subtle pleasures of German Lagers, amongst others.  I also toured the local beer circuit numerous times, started homebrewing, traded beer with other enthusiasts, and visited my first breweries.  All in all, I have been amazed by the generosity and enthusiasm of the beer community at large, from fans, to brewers, to importers, to retail workers, and beyond.  This post will recap some of my favorite beers from the year, some of my favorite events, and will give anyone new to the blog a chance to check out some of my favorite posts.

My craft beer journey began with a healthy hop obsession.  Here are five IPA that I wrote about, and five that I didn’t:

Green Flash West Coast IPA -The first beer I wrote about, one that really got me going.  An intense bomb of an IPA in session beer clothing.  Green Flash is one of my top breweries of 2008 and is one of the most consistent representatives of the amazing San Diego movement that really lets the hops flow.

Ithaca Flower Power IPA -The beer that I think about when I hear clueless west coast bloggers say that “there are no good east coast IPAs” or “when will east coast IPAs match up with west coast examples?”  Flower Power is transcendent on tap, amazingly sessionable in bottles, and well, it’s just fucking great.  We get it fresh and it kicks our asses.

Mikkeller Stateside IPA – One of the first beers that I grabbed based on how it looked, even though I had never heard of it.  I thought, “whoah, beer from Denmark, awesome.”  And it turned out to be a winner.  A delicious European take on an IPA, the concept of which proves the complexity of the craft beer industry and makes the “is beer as deep as wine” debate seem completely ridiculous.

Two Brothers Heavy Handed IPA – One of the best breweries in the country right now with one of the most delicious examples of a wet hop beer I’ve had.  The freshest hops in one of the brightest, most drinkable floral IPAs I’ve had, ever.  And that’s almost a year’s worth of experience talking…sorry, I can’t keep that up.

Bell’s Hopslam – I chased this beer like a madman, and it was worth it.  I finally ended up with it in a serendipitous manner, as an “extra” in a beer trade.  I was not disappointed at all — I shared it with a good friend, and it lived up to both of our expectations.  Honey, bitterness, sweetness.  Wow.

Five beers I didn’t review but fucking ruled:

Russian River Blind Pig & Pliny the Elder – Believe the hype, enough said.

Bear Republic Racer 5 – One of the first West Coast IPAs I ever heavily sessioned — very memorable.  Crisp and delicious.

Victory Yakima Twilight – A tiny cup of this from a cask at Bierkraft was enough to put it near the top of my list.  Very generous bitterness and incredible hop character flavor and aroma wise as well.

Lagunitas Hop Stoopid – One of my first IPA holy grails that I drank out on the west coast first but have since had the pleasure of drinking on tap and from growlers a couple times since.  Seriously, it’s Stoopid.

I began my stupid blog by saying I didn’t like lagers, and I ended saying I wish I drank more.  I really have an affinity for Bocks and Doppelbocks, and the goat phenomenon on the blog has been duly noted.  Namely Ayinger Celebrator, which is pretty much completely lifechanging.  But there’s also Sierra Nevada Double Debockel and Smuttynose S’Muttonator Doppelbock, which both bring their own new world perspectives.  Embrace them and drink them often.

Sour, “funky,” or “wild” brews made a big splash this year, and I was lucky enough to sample some of the best examples around.  Here’s a list of them, in list form:

Jolly Pumpkin Calabaza Blanca -Probably in my top 3 favorite beers for the year.  Extremely drinkable “infected” Wheat Beer from one of my favorite breweries and the shining star of Michigan’s amazing brewing scene.  Everything from them is spectacular, and there’s always something special about an interesting beer that you could drink a lot of.  Superb.

New Glarus Unplugged Berliner Weiss – When I started trading beer, New Glarus was at the top of the list of breweries I needed to get my hands on.  I wasn’t disappointed by their more popular Raspberry Tart of Belgian Red beers, but this specific “ungplugged” beer really struck a chord with me — also a very sessionable sour beer.  Beautifully complex and acidic, and very wine-like.  I hope this comes back next time around.

Hanssens Mead The Gueuze – Spuyten Duyvil in Brooklym has become one of the holy beer grails of the entire city, and for good reason.  One night I went there to drink Cantillon and ended up drinking a lot of Hannssens instead.  An amazing blender of lambics and gueuezes, Hannsens made this specific gueuze with mead, which was an inspired choice — the deep, musty flavors from the honey complimented the over the top sourness and acidity of the gueueze with which it was mixed.  Any Hannsens is worth drinking, but this is my current favorite.

Russian River Beatification – Russian River is just completely unstoppable.  One brewery having the top entries for me in both the IPA and Sour Beer category is just fucking ridiculous.  Vinnie, you’re killing me.

Captain Lawrence Cuvee de Castleton – I didn’t write this beer up fully, but I wrote about going to the brewery for its release, which was a great time.  Opened another 750ml bottle of this recently and was very impressed by it’s grapey complexity.  A lot of different flavors and aromas going on, like a tamer Beatification with a bit more bright acidity.  Excellent, local, and another example of a brewery that can master both Sour beers and other, maltier or hoppier styles.

The following beers were inducted into the BDB “Life is Beautiful” Hall of Fame: Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock, Russian River Damnation, ’t Gaverhopke Extra, Three Floyd’s Alpha King, Three Floyd’s Gumballhead, Orval Trappist Ale, De Dolle Stille Nacht, Rochefort 10.  Read about them, drink them, live them.

We attended many events this year.  Spuyten Duyvil, The Gate, and Blind Tiger have taken the show with their amazing dedication to breweries, regional beers, and beer styles, which are all showcased at various times at these fine establishments.  Even though New York City gets an amazing amount of beer, it’s always a treat when something special comes in — and these places love to share.

To wrap it up, I have a few 2009 Beer Year Resolutions — brew more, drink more, and visit the west coast on a full beer trip.  Until next time, thanks for reading.

Where the Sun Shines but Beer Doesn’t…

I’m on vacation until after Christmas in beautiful but frighteningly beerless Puerto Rico. I’ll be back before the New Year to recap the year in brews, so stay tuned.

Seriously Mauled (Bear Republic Mauling at The Gate 12/17/08)

The frequency and awesomeness of Beer Events in Brooklyn is reaching a frightening crescendo.  Almost nightly you can cruise to various parts of the five boroughs and drink several lines of fresh brew from one of any of the hundreds of breweries that make it to Gotham — and that’s just the events which focus on single breweries.  Three days later I’ve just barely mustered up the courage to sit down and write about the massive explosions inside my skull that occurred throughout the last event at The Gate, celebrating Northern California’s Bear Republic.

The first time I ever came across the Bear, he was pretty sweet to me.  We were on his home turf, and a bar I was at had extremely fresh kegs of Racer 5, their “session” IPA, on draught.  For undisclosed reasons I was afforded copious amounts of this beer for free, which went down smooth and truly gave me an appreciation for fresh, bright, amazing West Coast IPA.  Since then I’ve flirted with the Bear some more, finding some on tap here and there, drinking the bottles that I could, with Racer 5 and Hop Rod Rye far outweighing the others in terms of what I consumed.

Needless to say I was not prepared for the intensity of the beers that The Gate had on that night.  There were TWENTY lines of Bear Republic to choose from, plus three casks which were tapped in series.  Having chased the fabled Racer X for so long after loving it’s younger brother, and having none of my friends around to discourage me from burning my mouth with hop insanity before I drank anything else, I had to go for it.  A pint of Racer X is as close as I have gotten in a long time to the completely sublime freshness of IPA on the West Coast.  There was a clean brightness about Racer X that sets it apart from the other big IPA, Apex, that I had at the Blind Tiger a few months back.  A beautiful amber color that belied the beer’s easy drinking finish, Racer X is perfectly carbonated, relatively light bodied without being thin, and finishes with an insane hop wallop dryness that is damaging but not tongue destroying.  Of course the nose on this beer is what I was after and I was not disappointed.  Didn’t have the wherewithal to try and figure out what kind of Hops went into it, but there were massive amounts of resin, citrus, and just insane fresh Hop aroma.  Wow.  I tried to drink this slowly but that didn’t go so well.

Next I was encouraged by Pat and others to try the cask, Hop Rod Rye, already mentioned as one of my favorites from the brewery.  It took me a few minutes to warm the beer up and try to recover my taste buds, but both kicked in in sufficient time and I was pleasantly surprised by how great the cask treated this beer.  Or rather, how untreated it was — it was a beautiful ruddy brown, hazed and dark.  Regardless, the natural, light carbonation and preserved freshness did wonders for the round Malt flavors, and the lack of heavy carbonation allowed the Rye to come across in a gentler, less astringent fashion.  This Rye IPA is a great example of how malt, bitterness, and spice can all come together to form a sessionable IPA without leaning to far in any one direction.  Bear Republic is masterful at balancing these properties…when they want to.

When they don’t want to be balanced, they aren’t.  After not taking it easy for my first two selections, I went for the 11% ABV Barrel Aged Old Scouter’s Barleywine next.  As shocked as I was by the first two beers, I could never have expected how perfect and wonderful this barleywine is.  I was literally walking around stunned, telling everyone who would listen that I would rather “frame this beer than drink it.”  Massive amounts of malt and barrel funk are the first thing you smell when you bring this beer up to your gullet.  The malt was so thick and heavy on the nose that I couldn’t stop smelling it, like the time I visited a sugar shack in Massachussettes and wanted to bathe in the steam of the Maple Syrup cooking down.  Touted as 120 IBUs, Scouter’s didn’t dissapoint in the bitterness department, but as unbalanced and insane as this beer intentionally is, it actually finished pretty clean.  Delicious, warming malt coats your palate first, which is then washed away by strong bitterness.  Genius moves all around.  I’m not sure how old or how common this is, but wow, wow, wow.  One of the best Barleywine’s I’ve ever had, and definitely my #1 Bear Republic beer, even though I don’t think I’d have the heart to drink another anytime soon.

Bear Republic completely mauled all of us at The Gate that night — and I learned a lot about beer in the process.  Honorable Mentions go to EZ Ryder, a 100% Rye Beer (yes, and it was…balanced, ridiculous) and Pete Brown’s (a winner as always).  For more action, check out Beertender Pat’s pictures from the event for completely superfluous heavy crew shots.

Two More Stone (with some help) Killers (Stone/Jolly Pumpkin/Nogne Holiday Beer & Cali-Belgique)

San Diego’s Beer Mecca status is well established.  Ask anyone who has been there or has spent more than a couple hours there, and they will tell you: “The weather is perfect” and “The Beer is amazing.”   Scientists are now trying to bottle San Diego sunshine and export it around the world, for more than its potential positive effects on brewing — people there seem to be pretty happy.  The self-assured vibe of Stone Brewing has been well established also (this month’s issue of Brew Your Own has a good feature on the brewery, which includes some great homebrew clone recipes), and I’m proud to log reviews of two new beers from this outstanding Brewery, one of the few San Diego brewery that manages to bottle and export many, many bottles of sunshine to New York City on a regular basis.

The first Stone beers that really caught my attention were its massive, insane IPAs.  Ruination is one of my all time favorites, and the regular Pale Ale and IPA are no slouches either.  Once I got hooked on their brews, though, I was able to see how many different things they were capable of, and their obsession with Belgian Yeast flavors has been evident in their Vertical Epic series.  Cali-Belgique is an attempt to marry the massive citrus and floral hop aromas of West Coast IPAs with the tropical, warm fruit nose of Belgian Yeasts, especially evident in their Golden Ales, but prevalent in various forms all around the Motherland.  Without a doubt, Cali-Belgique is a huge success, managing to skirt the line between the two styles in a way that is both uniquely Stone and unequivocally Belgian influenced.  Cali-Belgique pours a bright copper color, like a classic west coast IPA, with tight bubbles and a quickly dissipating head.  The nose is an awesome mixture of Belgian Yeast and West Coast IPA hop aromas, with almost no malt noticable at all.  Sipping this beer gives off great fruit and citrus from the hops which mixes very well with the fruit flavors from the yeast. An assertive yet transparent malt backbone which is a tiny bit thin for my tastes with a bitter beer like this, but they seem to be taking the dryness cue from the Belgians on this.  I was really glad to hear that Stone would be making this a year-round style, and this represents a very successful volley in the Belgium-influenced-us-and-then-we-influenced-them-and-now-they’re-influencing-us-again thing.  I’m glad New York City is smack in the middle between California and Belgium — we see a lot of good crossfire.

One other way that Stone is exploring the possibilites of brewing and stretching the boundaries of commercial beer is to participate in collaborations with other breweries.  Collaborations are all the rage right now, both in the US and in Europe, where “gypsy brewers” like Mikkeller wander the continents and collaborate with brewers they admire.  In this case, Stone is collaborating with BDB favorite Jolly Pumpkin and Norweigan trailblazer Nogne 0.  The popularity of collaborations has been overwhelmingly positive, resulting in a bunch of new beers that wouldn’t have existed if certain juggernauts had not put their heads together in a creative way.  The Stone/JP/Nogne beer is a holiday ale, meant to highlight indigenous ingredients from each brewery’s environment — Chestnuts from Michigan, Juniper Berries from Norway, and Sage from California.  This beer is also brewed with 25% rye malt, which gives a lot of spicy balance to this otherwise pretty huge beer.  This ale pours a dark brown with red highlights, accompanied by a small, quickly fading white head.  The aroma is fantastic — hints of Sage and Juniper berry come through, and a hint of spiciness from Hops and Rye.  There’s a good deal of body in this beer, which makes it appropriate for the style, but there is dryness on the finish that doesn’t make it difficult to get through the 12oz bottle. Relatively high ABV makes this a sipper, but the flavors that run through this beer, especially as it warms up, are fantastic.  The juicy quality from the Juniper berries stood out most for me, and I don’t get much Chestnut at all, but I’m not sure what to be looking for there.  Overall, this is a successful beer that has a lot going on, and is about as focused as a collaboration between three brewing luminaries could really be.  Each wanted their say, and they got it — the result is a great beer, a step forward for craft brewing, and a unique flavor and aroma profile that would be very difficult to recreate.  Check each brewery’s website for accounts of the brewing process — it sounds like it worked out quite well.

A Pile of Apples (Sarasola Sagardoa Basque Cider)

When I started to ferment hard cider in my basement, I knew that I had to get deeper into the world of hard ciders.  Since I grew up in New York State, which still produces a hell of a lot of apples, I definitely knew the difference between commercial, filtered and pasteurized juice, and fresh from the farm apple cider.  Of course I enjoyed them both as a kid, but as an adult, I try to only drink apple cider, as opposed to what us Americans call apple “juice” — overly filtered, sugar added, bright yellow, and mostly lacking the taste of fresh apples or apples at all for that matter.

My first stop on my impromptu world Hard Cider tour is the Basque region of Spain, where the tradition of the sagardotegi, or cider house, is still alive and well.  Basque Cider is distinct from many other ciders of the world in that it is still, typically served from large barrels, and has many distinctive serving rituals associated with it, including, but not limited to, pouring directly from the bottle into the glass at a height of 3′ or more (sometimes behind the back) and tapping the gigantic barrels and filling a glass directly that way.  Both of these serving methods produce bubbles that promote aromatic explosions when the Cider is consumed, and are necessary because in the bottle or from the barrel, the Cider is completely still.

Sarasola Sagardoa is one of the few Basque Ciders that makes it into the United States, brought in by the venerable distributors at B. United.  It pours a bright and vibrant yellow color with tints of green and a bit of sedimental cloudiness.  Drinking Sarasola was a complete revelation for me, as I’ve been searching for other “wild” tasting beverages ever since I got my hands on some Cantilon and Russian River bottles in the past few years.  This Cider manages to maintain the careful balance between sour and sweet, wild and mild, and everything inbetween.  A sharp, tart initial flavor is balanced and rounded by sweetness, but a dry finish makes it more drinkable than even a normal glass of Cider.  Low in ABV, there is no alcohol on the nose or on the pallette, and this gentle beverage manages to maintain an enormous amount of its original apple character.  Naturally fermented without the addition of yeasts or sugars, Sarasola Sagardoa is as pure and delicious as any wild fermented beverage could possibly be — deep in flavor with a tannic quality, and a very complex flavor profile that changes over time, this is perhaps the most wine-like beverage I have reviewed yet for this blog.  This is a great Cider to drink with some food – and next time I am going to have it with a grilled steak like they do in Basque country.  If anyone knows of any other Basque ciders I can get my hands on, let me know.

Up next, some Cider from France, and some from Brooklyn…my own.