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Something’s Missing! (Deschutes Red Chair IPA)

With their Red Chair IPA, Deschutes promises extreme hop presence without the bracing bitterness that sometimes precludes my enjoyment of otherwise hoptastic Imperial and Double IPAs. I snagged a few from Joey in our last South Bay Drugs order and downed one a couple nights ago and another last night, just to be sure I hadn’t missed something.

The hops are there I suppose. They come across as primarily fruity and floral on the nose, a bit of apricot and apple. Where they are lacking, however, is in that sharper citrus/pine scent I want in a heavily late-hopped IPA, and their laid back fruitiness leaves them vulnerable to being overpowered by the malt, which is fairly sweet and toasty. The fact that the beige head was meager and disappeared too soon kept it from really opening up I think.

The problem here is really just that in attempting to eliminate the bitterness, they’ve gone too far and there just seems to be something basic missing. Don’t get me wrong, it’s an extremely drinkable IPA, decent body and all, and I could happily session a few bombers on a hot summer day, but the heart and soul of those West Coast hop monsters we all know and love seems to have been neutered when a simple trim would’ve done nicely.

Strong Hops From North of the Border (Hopfenstark event @ Beer Table)

Hopfenstark is a brewery 30 miles outside of Montreal in Quebec, Canada, which has built up a nice reputation amongst beer nerds for offering a wide selection of distinctive beers and sticking to their guns when it comes to style and flavor — basically, the brewer Fred does what he wants, and that’s just the kind of brewery that Brew Dog Blog loves.  There were a few NYC events with these guys last week, so luxuriating in the ability to choose which I attended, I opted to go down to Beer Table because I hadn’t been there in a while, and its the closest to my rather far flung homestead.

When I showed up I was pleasantly surprised to learn that minds behind 12 Percent Imports (who I raved about here) were behind bringing Hopfenstark into the city, and more than just a “tasting,” this was the celebration of the beer being available in NYC now — very cool.  We don’t get much great Canadian beer down here, and as I made my way through the list, I was pleasantly surprised by everything I tried.  Hopfenstark has a real knack with differentiating his beers from each other, and for not going too deeply into one “category” of beers to the point where other categories suffer.  Each beer had distinctions that led themselves to their styles — varying carbonation levels, varying means of fermentation and yeasts, lots of varying flavors.  I’ll give a brief rundown here of some of those selections, and will add, as usual — DRINK THIS BEER! It’s fantastic.

Blanche De L’Ermitage (5.0% ABV Witbier) – After completely overdoing the Witbier thing last year, and drinking an insane amount of Schneider-Weisse, it’s been kinda hard for me to drink Wheat Beers lately.  Hopfenstark’s Blanche De L’Ermitage, however, defied all of my expectations by providing a very unique and interesting drinking experience.  This is the beer that really had me praising the brewer’s tenacity and talent — this is a very rustic, not very integrated beer, but that doesn’t bother me at all.  It had all of the right peppery, spicey notes without overwhelming the banana (in fact it was barely present) and the spiciness and fullness of flavor kept it very drinkable, while finishing very dry and keeping you coming back for more.  Maybe the most “Saisonish” Witbier I’ve tried, with nice brisk carbonation, a tendency toward the browner side of the spectrum, and overwhelmingly exploding with flavor and aroma from spices.  Awesome.

Post Coloniale (6.0% ABV American IPA) – After seeing a big list of Saisons, I was excited to see styles like Porter and IPA represented as well.  The Post Coloniale is one of the “roughest,” most rustic IPAs I’ve ever had, and while I hate to keep harping on that term, there is a certain aggressive quality with these beers which tend toward representing all of the ideas the beer has to offer without much concern for balance or other typical designations of “quality” which I never really care about anyway.  An American IPA with a French Canadian via Belgium twist, the Post Coloniale is  a cloudy, intensely flavored beer with a very nice melange of hop aromas.  There’s not an overwhelming amount of bitterness present, whcih supports a nice malt backbone and is dried out by a low finishing gravity and a very nice piney, citrusy note at the end of the sip.  A little bit difficult to explain, but a very interesting brew, Post Coloniale is a glimpse into what other Saison Producing breweries might do if faced with the task of making an IPA, where the hops become as much of a spice as anything else.  Very nice.

Loulou Porter (5.0% ABV Porter) - A very delicious selection on cask, the Loulou had the perfect amount of carbonation, roastiness, and sweetness to make it one of the best new porters I’ve sampled in a very long time.  A nice Mapley nose is complemented with a similar initial flavor on the tongue, which dries out and makes this a very drinkable beer.  Not an overwhelming amount of chocolatey or bitter notes keeps the affair very smooth, and this dark, almost still beer could be a huge winner to replace any number of flavorless, bubbless beers anywhere in the United Kingdom, but I’d be happy to keep it all for my own.  By this point in the night, I’m very “warm.”  Let’s keep going.

Brewer Fred brought in a small quantity of a few bottles which he brought down for the events, and this included 3 Saisons, named with different numbers, for different reasons.  I’ll break down the two I tried:

Saison Station 7 (5.0% ABV Saison) – Thusly named because it is “made with 7 spices,” Saison Station 7 actually kind of refutes the points I made above about rustic, unbalanced beers and produces a mixture of spices, wild yeast, and malt that is one of the most complex and interesting Saisons I’ve had from outside of Belgium, or anywhere.  After pouring a ruddy orange color with a lot of bubbles, the nose has a good amount of spice and interesting yeast notes, and as you sip the beer, more spices poke out at you — is there Ginger? Coriander? Peppercorns? Some other traditional Witbier spicing? Or none of these? I’m not sure what the 7 spices are, but the soup is improved, as opposed to being too muddied up with all of that flavor.  A true Saison that is produced seasonally and just with whatever the brewer has around, Station  7 is an awesome selection.

Saison Station 55 (6.5% ABV Saison) – Station 55 gets its appelation from containing 55 IBUs, and this awesome, bitter Saison is one of my favorite selections of the whole night.  Similar in color and carbonation level to the 7. Station 55 marries the spicy yeast notes from the Saison yeast with the herbal, spicy, and citrusy flavors from the hops, creating an awesome marraige of classic Belgian and West Coast USA flavors, in a package with a hint of wild yeast, a hint of spice, and a hell of a lot of complex drinkability.  Another score.

I’m interested to see when this beer will be around NYC more regularly, and whether we’ll get bottles, kegs, or both.  I’m going to make it a point to try all of them — and I recommend you do the same.

Infected Sessions (Mikkeller It’s Alright)

Mikkeller, the awesome, nomadic “brewery” from Denmark which is actually one guy who goes from brewery to brewery in Europe and the USA brewing collaborative beers or sneaking in his own, is “available” in New York again.  I’ve managed to purchase some bottles in the past year or so since I discovered them, but most of the time, they are absent.  The new crop includes old favorites and some new ones, including a few of the single varietal hop series beers, and two of the wild beers – U.S. Alive and It’s Alright.  Mikkeller’s first available beer with “wild” yeast was “It’s Alive,” which I haven’t been able to get my hands on, but It’s Alright is described by the brewer as It’s Alive’s little brother.

Fermented with both regular top-fermenting Ale Yeast and Brett Yeast provides an opportunity to control the beer’s flavors, and It’s Alright is a successful, if not perfect attempt at an Infected Session beer, along the lines of Jolly Pumpkin’s low ABV selections.  It’s Alright pours a beautiful clear straw color and is crackly as soon as it hits the glass.  Their is a great, fruity, wild aroma immediately from the yeast that dominates the experience in a great way.  Like most beers dosed with Brettanomyces, which is capable of eating more of the remaining sugars in beer than normal brewer’s yeast (a property known as being ‘highly attenuative’), It’s Alright is very dry, and the body suffers a bit for this reason.  Just a touch more, or a bit of malt or caramel sweetness would really make this beer excellent.  This is more of a light Saison than a pale ale, but in any event, it’s an excellent, highly drinkable beer that I would drink a ton of if I were a millionaire.  Alas, as they say, It’s Alright.

Nothing like a little hate to get you back in the game (Budweiser American Ale)

Since I was running late from the Upper West Side to band practice last night, I asked T-Bone to pick up the brews for practice.  He lives right near a very competent deli that in the past has supplied us with more than enough good jamming fodder — Lagunitas Hop Stoopid, Stone Ruination, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, etc.  Since we had been discussing it, and since supplies were looking dismal, Todd decided to also bring a Budweiser American Ale, the “great savior” of Budweiser’s Light Lager empire, their attempt at crossing over into the realm of people who have actual taste in beer.  Since the beer is certainly cheap enough, and I wanted to remind myself just how good the beer I drink on a regular basis actually is, I decided to start the night off with it, pouring some for myself and some for my bandmates.  Budweiser’s American Ale pours a darker almost brown color, with an overwhelming sweet smell, with no hops or yeast smells apparent at all.  When I tell you that this beer is actually worse than Budweiser’s “standard” Lager Beer, it might not surprise you.  However if I were to tell you that this is by far the worst, least successful beer I’ve tried in a very long time, perhaps ever, wait, you probably still wouldn’t be surprised.  To say that Budweiser should “stick to what they know” is a gross understatement.  They should send me a check refunding my cash, donate 1/10 of their proceeds to Sixpoint and Captain Lawrence, and just call it a day.  An apt description I came up with was that American Ale tastes like base Budweiser which has had cornflakes steeped in it and then had a few drops of weak brown food coloring added.  It’s truly better to drink almost anything, including nothing, instead of drinking this swill.  Do not come close, do not say I didn’t warn you, and don’t even pity me for trying it.  Just let it leave your mind.

Brew Logs from a Long Lost Dog (Of Belgian IPA Failure and Kombucha Redemption)

I’ve been a long time gone from the blog but with this inaugural springtime post I hope to hop back on the wagon. We jammed a gig last night and I brought some of my first beer of spring, a Belgian IPA, which has been bumming me out as it seems to have “picked up a little something” somewhere in the brewing process. Its a down-the-drain batch, basically, which would be less of a disappointment if I hadn’t bottled a sixer-and-a-half of it with a little something special, the first experiment in which I hope to be a long love affair with brewing extra special mood altering beers.

Mashing of the Belgian IPA

Mashing of the Belgian IPA

It seems that Mother Nature has taken pity upon me for my beer failings, however, as today I bottled my first batches of home-brewed Kombucha, and they turned out better than I could have hoped for. I’ve been wanting to get into brewing Kombucha Tea (or KT, as the hippies call it) for a while and never managed to hook up a SCOBY (Symbiotic Colony Of Bacteria and Yeast!) from a friend who brews. As luck would have it, two weekends ago we were walking through Park Slope on our way to Beer Table to pick up some flip-top 33cl bottles for my homebrew from Justin, when we happened upon a table of generous yuppie-hippies giving away SCOBYs from a big jar.

Beautiful, beautiful booch...

Arriving home with my SCOBYs I immediately got to work on two batches, a regular Black Tea and Sugar Kombucha, and one I’ve been wanting to try since I first got hooked on both Kombucha and Yerba Mate, a Mint Mate Kombucha with Honey. I was wary of the Mate and Honey as I wasn’t sure they’d have enough nutrients to feed the SCOBY and ferment properly, but both batches got down to about 3.1pH after two weeks, so i sampled some of each today and they were great! The Black Tea KT I would even say was too sweet compared to the Mate, so for batch 2 I dropped the sugar down about 30%. The recipe is basically 1/4c tea and 1/4c sugar for each quart of water, but i’m working closer to 1/8c of sugar now to see how it turns out. I bottled all 3 quarts and put them back in the pantry to carbonate so I’ll post an update later on.

Brew Logs (American (3*IPA)/2)

Fermentation less than 12 hours after pitching

Fermentation less than 12 hours after pitching

Trying to stay on top of my homebrewing game, which has been distracting me a bit from posting too many reviews here.  That might seem like a lame excuse, and maybe it is, but, well, what can ya do?  I took it upon myself to offer Stinky and his awesome wife Jillian some homebrew for their wedding party this summer, in the middle of July, and since I want it to be good, I decided I would try a test run, get some opinions, and then adjust accordingly.  Given the timing, we’re on track if I get this thing racked, dry-hopped, and carbed in the keg in time to try it and then quickly brew another and do the same.  Being a big fan of a nice IPA in the summer time, and knowing that Stinky is a huge fan, I thought it would be a good style, since I’ve never tried to brew a “clean” American styled Ale before, to both provide a crucial brew offering, and to get my homebrew game up.

I went down to Sixpoint to score some homebrew supplies, and was blessed enough to get my hands on a ton of hops, some nice Ale yeast, and the necessary specialty grains for a pittance — man, I love those guys.  Having a local brewery that is owned and operated by homebrewers is a blessing — especially in a city with NO HOMEBREW STORE.  Seriously, what the fuck, NYC?

I’m still working on a 55# bag of Marris Otter Pale malt, which I didn’t want to use as too high a % of my grist since by all accounts it leaves  a decent amount of residual sweetness, and I wanted my beer to have the following properties: 1) Finish Very Dry (around 1.012) 2) Have a pronounced hop flavor 3) Not be overly bitter 4) Not be overly swet. Yes, that just sounds like “make a dry, balanced beer,” but these guidelines helped me figure out the right questions to ask around, and with the good natured help of Craig at Sixpoint, I came up with the following Recipe:

5.5# Marris Otter Pale / 5.5# Rahr Pale / .5# Belgian Cara 8 / .5# Belgian Cara 20 / 1# Dextrose

60 Minutes: 1oz Warrior / .5 oz Columbus

45 Minutes: .5 oz Centennial

30 Minutes: .5oz Amarillo

5 Minutes: .5oz Simcoe / .5oz Cascade

0 Minutes: 1oz Cascade / 1oz Centennial / 1oz Simcoe / 1oz Amarillo

Mashed for 75 minutes at 148 / 60 Minute Boil / Pitched yeast at 68F

OG: 1.075 (Higher than I wanted) – about 80% efficient

I didn’t think I would be quite so efficient, so this 100 IBU beer will now be closer to 8% than 6%, which makes it somewhere between an IPA and a Imperial IPA, hence being the 1.5 IPA.  Fermentation vigorously exploded less than 12 hours after pitching.  Hopefully will dry out within a week, and then get two rounds of 7 day long dry hopping, on a few ounces of pellets each time.  I’m looking for outrageous hop aroma and hopefully the flavor is there without being overly bitter.  We’ll see!

Brew Logs (100% Brett Beer, Fantome Yeast Culture)

Finally getting back around to homebrewing again was a very rewarding experience.  I made a pact with myself to try and brew 12 beers in 2009, one every month.  So far I’ve only brewed in January and April, and I’m considering brewing again this upcoming weekend to make up for February, and maybe doing two in May.  We’ll see how all that goes.  I purchased some equipment to make my brewing operation more self contained, including a grain mill and a Turkey Fryer burner for outdoor boiling.  Both have proved to be very helpful in shortening my brew day — no more driving to a friend’s place to use his grinder, and no more waiting 90+ minutes for 6.5 gallons of wort to boil on my very weak kitchen stovetop.

I was able to get my hands on a pure Fantome Yeast Culture from a friend and I have been looking forward to using it as the Primary yeast strain on a blonde beer, which I finally got around to doing several months later.  I spent a long time stepping this Yeast up in a starter, using some of it for secondary on another beer, and the yeast seemed quite viable when I pitched it.  I took the grain bill from the “Wild Brews” book, which gives a recipe suggested to use when fermenting with 100% Brettanomyces yeast, and adjusted it slightly for what I had laying around Hop and Grain-wise.  I ended up with:

13# Maris Otter / 1# Acid Malt / 2# Wheat

1 oz Centennial at 90 mins / 1 oz Cascade at 10 mins

90 Minute Mash @ 148 degrees / 90 Minute Boil

Pitched 750ml of Brett slurry at 70 degrees

Very smooth brew day in all, came it at around 5.25 hours including a longer mash and boil than I usually do.  Vigorous fermentation with high Krausen at 24 hours, lots of gas being kicked out of this already.  Fermenting nicely in my kitchen next to my Mead that’s been going for about a month.

As usual I’ll try to post results as they come in.  I plan on primarying this for 2 weeks at room temp and then conditioning it a bit colder for 2 more weeks before bottling it with priming sugar and letting it age for a while.  I’m still trying to figure out what to brew next –  I’m thinking of working on my first Lager.

The Bubbly Blonde and the Heavy Brunette (Bruery Humulus Blonde, Sixpoint Express)

My wife doesn’t drink beer.  This isn’t such a terrible thing — she still happily carts my fat ass to beer events, indulges my friends and I when we babble on about brewing minutiae, and does a bunch of other stuff for me that makes her a saint in my eyes.  The thing about it that makes it hard is that up until recently, purchasing a growler of beer was a huge committment for me.  I knew going in to any 64oz jug of beer that I purchased that I would be responsible for finishing the whole thing — which isn’t always an issue, but when  a high test brew is on tap at Bierkraft and I want a jug, I sometimes have to think twice.  Until recently, that is.  Bierkraft started filling select beers of theirs in 22oz counter-pressure filled bombers, which makes it very easy for a compulsive beer sampler like myself to get into some brews that otherwise would destroy my brain if I consumed all 64 ounces.

Two recent excellent offerings there included a new beer from local favorites Sixpoint, and a small run beer from recent New York implant The Bruery.

Sixpoint’s Express is a Quadruple – another example of a Belgian “Trappist” style that is difficult to nail down but should contain a few benchmark traits in order to be considered part of the style.  Typically very high in alcohol (check, this clocks in at 11% + ABV), dark reddish brown in color (this is a bit paler) and exhibiting the darker dried fruit range of flavors and aromas, some examples of the Quad style are so difficult to track down that it’s hardly fair to discuss all of them here.  But of course Sixpoint shrugs off most of these things and makes a beer that is all their own.  A deep, deep brew, this exhibits a good amount of dryness which is key to making such a heady beer easy to digest, and with a very small amount of residual sweetness, it does a great job.  I’ve heard other people talking about how well hidden the booze is in this beer and I’d have to agree — it’s hard to know, aside from how your vision is blurring and doubing, that this beer contains as much alcohol as a glass of wine, and I’m sure happy that I didn’t spring for 64oz of this — it would cause  me quite a lot of trouble.  Pouring a beautiful but paler color than most quads, Express has a deep nose of chocolate, caramel, and raisins, with a hint of something lighter — a decent amount of hop aroma, a great amount of balance, and a nice full body that finishes dry.  Balance, balance, balance.  Sixpoint does it again.  I love you guys!

The Bruery recently landed with quite a loud impact in the NYC area — every beer nerd I know has had the brewery’s name on their lips, and with good reason.  Humulus Blonde is one of their latest brews to hit this coast, and it is a hell of a beer.  Pouring a golden color, clear and bubbly, Humulus Blonde has so much god damned citrus hops on the nose that you can actually trick yourself into thinking you’re about to take a big swing of a Grapefruit Spritzer.  A good amount of bitterness is countered with a nice malty backbone and a great amount of hop flavor.  There’s a good amount of Belgian Yeast on the nose too — pretty much everything you could hope for from a “Belgian IPA” and more of a standout to me than the other West Coast renderings of the same style.  Just beautiful all around, Patrick seems incapable of failing.  I need to get out there immediately to check out the brewery and it’s tasting room which is famous for hosting great events and supporting the local homebrewing communities.

So thank you, Bierkraft, for giving a guy a break — keep those bombers flowing!

New York State is Sour as Hell (Ithaca Brute and Captain Lawrence Rosso E Morrone)

California has gotten serious respect for its production of Belgian styled barrel aged beers.  Infused yeasts and bacteria that produce an insane array of aromas and flavors, these beers are truly hand-crafted, with the help of the American scientific mind.  There are many excellent versions of these Lambic or Geuze styles of beer, often aged in specific vintages of barrels from Whiskey, or Cabernet Wine, or Chardonay, etc. and adorned with fruits to match the flavors that recently vacated the barrel. These beers take a very long time to produce their final flavors and go through a dizzying array of chemical and biological changes that is only recently begun to be documented and fully parsed.  The end result is tart, with an almost tropical fruit aroma in many cases, with a dry, biting finish.

Two excllent examples of this “wild” style have recently come out of New York State.  Captain Lawrence hit a homerun with its first entry into the Sour Beer canon with its much sought after Cuvee de Castelton, and Rosso E Morrone is a sort of “red wine” version of this style, aged in oak barrels and refermented with red grapes.  A very intriguing intermingling of the typical wine and beer flavors, Rosso E Morrone is easily in the running for most complex beer experience on planet earth, hitting the palate so many different ways that the small 375ml bottle is quite a journey to take.  Rosso comes in a wax capped small “split” style champagne bottle with a red wax dipped cap.  It pours a pretty hazy reddish brown with almost no head and a small amount of carbonation.The nose is very intense, a range of funky, fruity, and chemical/wood smells that keep changing as you sip.  Similarly, a treat of flavors await you as you sip, alternating between a decent malt presence, a nice tart fruitiness, and a crisp but round hint of bitterness.  An absolutely classic take on this “Belgian styled” beer which is really as much New York chutzpah as anything else — amazing.

Ithaca’s Brute has been an elusive brew to track down in the bottle — I tried it about a year ago in Cooperstown at the Ommegang festival, and rumors of the bottle being “brewery only” persisted until recently some bottles showed up at Bierkraft.  Score.  Brute pours a bright golden color with a nice big head that dissipates quickly, and a nice heavy amount of carbonation.  Brute is the “traditional” Champagne to Rosso’s sparkling Shiraz, dryer, a bit more biting, and hitting the brighter part of the fruit spectrum (white grapes, peaches) as opposed to the darker fruits that Rosso has to offer (plums, red grapes, etc.).  Brute is a touch more one-dimensional than Rosso, although it is still quite a complex sipper.  Brute has more of a hop presence both in the nose and on the palate, with an effervescent mouthfeel that keeps the heavy acidity from being overbearing.

As good as anything being produced by most American brewers who dare to step into the sour beer fray, these two New York State examples make me proud to be a resident and advocate for local beer — keep the explorations coming!

Infected Sessions (Drie Fonteinen Beersel Lager)

Tracing the unique paths of influence back and forth between Europe and the USA in terms of brewing styles and techniques has been a particular focus of this blog since it’s inception about a year ago.  Here we have an interesting if not more old school example of the same kind of cross-pollination, not between the old world and the new, but between the old world and…the old.

While Belgium gets the credit for being the most exciting and enduring destination for American beer nerds, a smaller, quieter subset are insistent on their obsession with Germany’s beers, particularly their Lagers.  Having experienced a decent amount of these harder-to-find and less-hyped beers over the course of the last year, I can definitely say that the next beer trip I make to Europe will not exclude some of the more interesting regions in Germany’s panoply of amazing beer.

Beersel Lager is an interesting study in cross-pollination – Drie Fonteinen’s Armand Debelder admires the Lagers of Germany, claims the label, so he decided to have one contract brewed for him at the world-class De Proef facility, where many excellent brands from Belgium are brewed.  The results are revelatory, combining the refreshing drinkability of a German Lager with the depth of flavor of a Belgian Lambic.  Beersel Lager pours a touch more amber than the typical “yellow Lager” color, with a big fluffy-white Belgian head and tons of carbonation.  The nose has touches of breadiness you would expect from a Lager and a nice hit of tart, “wild” aromas from the Belgian yeast.  Sipping this beer breeds similar interesting combinations of flavor — a bit of lactic sourness, a nice bitter bite of hops, and a smooth, bready body in the middle.  An excellent sipping beer that unfortunately could only be stocked by someone much flusher with cash than I for a regular session beer, it comes closest to Jolly Pumpkin’s beers in pushing boundaries of beer geekdom into the realm of the Lawnmower beer.  Excellent product as usual and a lesson in how taking old ideas and combining them can produce astounding and surprising results.  Killer.