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Quick Summer Updates (Port Brewing, Ballast Point, Contreras)

I’ve been pretty wrapped up in everything except writing these days, including a recent obsession with Chess, trying to get back into gardening regularly, working, and playing music a few times a week.  As usual I’ve had plenty of time to try lots of new beers, so instead of letting these new ones sit in the “queue” and eventually never get written up, I thought I’d highlight a few recent favorites in one blast.

Port Brewing is probably no stranger to anyone who reads this blog (don’t laugh, we have a few readers, even some who aren’t related to me), and their Hot Rocks Lager is one of the more interesting sounding of their seasonal, somewhat experimental beers.  While most of the barrel-aged, soured, fruit adding beers are done over at Lost Abbey, there’s plenty of intriguing stuff coming out of Port to keep you busy for a while.  When a recent stroke of luck saw a friend on his way back to NYC from PA with a detour programmed in for grabbing beers, I asked him to grab whatever Port stuff was around, as I usually do, and I was rewarded handsomely with this 22oz bottle.  Hot Rocks Lager is a “Steinbier,” an obscure German Style beer where the wort is boiled by dropping super hot rocks into the kettle, causing a ton of caramelization along with the typical wort boiling.  Actually it seems that Steinbiers could take different forms, therefore making it more of a process than a style, but you get the point.  I’m not 100% sure how far Tomme and his collaborator went in creating this Steinbier, but I understand he presented on the subject at the National Homebrewer’s conference a few weeks back, so maybe an astute reader can comment.  Hot Rocks turns out to be a very satisfying Lager, true to the Lager style with its lack of yeast aromas, and big on the malty, chocolatey aroma ostensibly caused by the Steinbier process.  A smooth, very drinkable, ruby red lager with a crackling white head that hangs around, Hot Rocks is somewhere near a Bock in style, but not quite as fruity, if I’m keeping my styles straight.  It’s a delicious beer with an interesting story, though, and it doesn’t take much more than that to get me on board.

Ballast Point is one of the San Diego area breweries that us New Yorkers have been waiting to get our hands on for quite a while.  Despite the fact that their Yellowtail Kolsch is their flagship beer, they entered the NYC market with their Calico Amber and Big Eye IPA.  Both are available in 12oz bottles now, so in the name of research, I grabbed one of each.  Big Eye IPA is not quite the “classic” West Coast IPA you might expect upon picking it up, but it still proved to be quite delicious and very drinkable.  It pours a deep orange color with a huge white head, just like you want an IPA to look.  All of the right hop aromas are there, with a touch of caramel on top.  There’s no realy bracing bitterness here, and in fact, this is more of a balanced IPA from the West Coast than any I’ve had in quite some time.  In a lot of ways its closer to an East Coast style IPA, or maybe a West Coast style Pale Ale.  A nice thin-medium body keeps it drinkable as well, and the moderate ABV could make this a killer session beer.  I’d love to try this on tap, I think it would be very delicious.  Not a mindblower, but I’ll definitely return to it.  Likewise the Calico Amber is a very balanced, delicious, sessionable beer, although one with a lot more malt complexity and not as much hop aroma.  There are sweeter smells on display here, with some toastiness to boot, and overall the Calico could be a great choice for someone looking to check out some West Coast styled beers without having to split their tongues for an entire night.  I’m looking forward to getting my hands on some of Ballast Point’s bigger beers so I can see what they can do when they stretch their legs out a bit.

Contreras is one of the many obscure breweries brought in by the magnificent 12 percent importers, and their “Valeir” series of beers have been favorites of mine since they started coming in last year.  Their newest, the “Extra,” is another excellent example of the Belgian response to American innovation, in the form of the “Belgian IPA.”  If you’re not familiar with this style, I would almost describe it as a hoppier Saison with American Hops, and that’s exactly what you get here.  A very dry beer in the tradition of Belgian “digestability” with the added benefit of the delicious citrus and bubblegum flavors we’ve come to love from American IPAs.  Extra pours a beautiful golden orange with a classic Belgian styled rocky head which bursts massive aromas of hops and a slight bit of toasty malt.  No extra sweetness, no extra body, just beautiful refreshing beer flavors and aromas through and through.  The Belgian Yeast and American Hops compliment each other perfectly here, and unlike other Belgian hoppy beers in green bottles, there’s no oxidized skunk aromas or flavors.  Another winner!

Bonus points: does anyone out there know why Belgian IPAs tend to carry the “Extra” appellation? This has been bugging me for a while now.

Life is Beautiful (Saison Senne and Nogne Saison)

Reaching back a bit in my archive of notes to write up two beers in one of my all time favorite “non-styles,” the Saison.  One is a very authentic modern take originating far from where the style was born, and another a kind of ancient take from right in the heart of the Senne valley.

Nogne 0 has gotten some nice attention lately here in New York City where their portfolio of available brews is increasing and more people are taking notice of their excellent takes on almost any style imaginable.  When I noticed that they threw their hat in the Saison ring and was simultaneously encouraged by Stinky to check it out, I knew it was probably going to be a winner.  Nogne’s Saison pours a deep Orange color, closer to red than blonde, which right away gives it a distincitive look.  A large amount of crackling off white head is evidence of a lot of carbonation, which continuously releases a lot of great aromas for a long while after the beer is poured.  There’s apparently no extra spicing in this beer, only the aromas and flavors lent by the Saison style yeast, and that’s quite an accompilshment because there’s a lot of complexity in both departments.  Even though this is an appropriately dry Saison, there is a decent amount of maltiness and body, and the herbal and citrus notes do a lot to compliment that and prevent it from overwhelming the beer.  One of the better Saisons to come from anywhere outside of Belgium, Nogne scores again with this very balanced, very delicious version that would go very well with almost any food imaginable — I’m thinking a nice Steak, but I’m usually thinking about Steak these days, so that doesn’t say that much.

At an event at Spuyten Duyvil a little while back, I had the opportunity to sample some of the beers of Brasserie De la Senne, a Belgian brewery in the Senne Valley, where certain Belgian beer styles are said to have originated.  The beers are difficult to find in the United States, and as it was a joint “event” with the greatest brewers in the world (Cantillon), I was more than pleasantly surprised to learn that Senne’s Saison is actually blended with some of Cantillon’s young Lambic beer.  This Saison pours a pale golden color with a slighter quantity of carbonation than the Nogne version, but still enough to keep the drinkability nice and high.  There is a tartness in both aroma and flavor here, in addition to an array of sweet, spicy, and citrus notes which all come together in one of the more complex variations on any style I’ve ever had.  Easier-going than a Lambic, more adventurous than the average Saison, Senne’s version hits so many notes that really all you can say is that once again, Life is Beautiful.  Also check out Senne’s website for some of the best beer label artwork ever.

The Summer Of The Can (21st Amendment and Oskar Blues)

Brew Dog Blog officially declares this The Summer Of The Can (TSOTC).  TSOTC has begun a bit early this year, jumping summer’s official date by a full few weeks.  Partially responsible for this amazing situation is the timely introduction of the beers of the 21st Amendment Brewery from San Francisco to the New York City market.  Also not lending much credence to the whole idea of an official date for the beginning of summer is Oskar Blues’s Pilsner, Mama’s Little Yella Pils.

21st Amendment’s beers have been on my radar for a while, and I’m happy to finally get a chance to really sit down and enjoy their two current offerings available here in cans, Hell or High Watermelon, which is a Wheat Beer made with fresh pressed fruit, and Brew Free or Die, a west coast style IPA.  Hell or High Watermelon doesn’t really sound like a beer I’d be into, and at first, honestly, it wasn’t a beer I enjoyed.  That only lasted about three sips, though, and as I proceeded, I became very convinced that I could quite happily consume a large quantity of this beer, and be very proud of the fact that I was drinking a watermelon beer.  I have been drinking these more out of the can then in the glass, but when I did pour it, I was surprised at just how pale it is.  It pours a light yellow color with a quick, fizzy head, and coms out with a big kicking aroma of watermelons.  The fruit flavor isn’t up front when you sip right away, but as you drink it, it comes out more and more.  If this beer warms up a bit too much, it gets a little off and cloying tasting, but honestly, there’s no real danger of that happening.  You will chug this beer, I promise.  Brew Free or Die is a very tasty, highly drinkable IPA that finishes nice and dry like a West Coast IPA should.  A little maltier than the typical offering, and almost bordering on the Pale Ale in terms of its lack of bracing bitterness, this is a very successful, deep, golden IPA with nice aromas of Pine and Citrus.  Very well balanced, not too sweet and not too bitter, another insanely drinkable win from 21st Amendment.  What will they do next?

Oskar Blues has already been well established as an excellent purveyor of canned goods, and should be considered one of the forefathers of TSOTC.  Their latest contribution, a very delicious canned Pilsner, pours a beautifully clear golden color, with a touch of sulphur and a good amount of hops on the nose.  A bit hoppier than most Pilsners, and hence a lot tastier to this here tongue, Mama’s Little Yella Pils is a fantastic Colorado take on an all-time beer classic. Very drinkable with no hot alcohols or yeast aromas, this Pilsner is pure drinkability, in the right kind of package for almost any situation.

With all of these offerings and a lot more coming down the pipeline, the bottle may very well be on its way out — so embrace the can, my friends, The Summer is upon us!

Let’s All Move to Hawaii (Maui Brewing Co. Coconut Porter)

There’s a generally accepted adage that beautiful, warm places have shitty beer.  I can think of a few exceptions to this rule (San Diego, mostly) and I can also think of a few places that thoroughly confirm it (Puerto Rico, all of Portugal, most of Spain, etc.).  Hawaii, a place I’ve never been but have a thorough desire to check out, seems to also be an exception.  My brother and sister-in-law recently returned from an epic trip around the islands and brought me back not a flower necklace, a coconut monkey, or a dancing hula girl sculpture — they returned with gifts of beer.  Craft beer — in a can.

Maui Brewing Company has a nice reputation on the west coast for creating a nice variety of canned beer, the most famous of which is the Coconut Porter that I was lucky enough to get a 4 pack of.  Not having ever had any coconut beers, I didn’t know what to expect, and after reading about how the oils and proteins in coconut can be destructive to head retention and mouth feel, I was even more intrigued.  After killing two cans in about 30 minutes tonight, however, I’m ready to set all preconceived notions aside, and if you don’t hear from me for a few weeks, you might just assume I’m holing up in Maui swilling this stuff like it’s my job.

Coconut Porter pours a deep black with a large tan crackling head.  Immediately upon pouring the beer, chocolate, roast coffee, and coconut flavors pour out.  It’s interesting that this beer would be popular in someplace warm, but hey, craft beer drinkers are an adventurous bunch, and Coconut Porter finishes clean and dry enough to dismiss most people’s notions that “dark beer is heavy beer.”  The same elements that come through in the nose come through on the palate as well, a nice range of chocolates, bitter grains, and a light hint of coconut.  Perfect in body, sessionable in ABV at less than 6%, and therefore eminently drinkable, Coconut Porter combines the classic elements of a Porter with an ingenious use of indigenous ingredients that just makes me really fucking happy.  I’m glad I have two cans left, but I’m sure they won’t last long.  Thanks Aja and Bret!

Homebrew Logs (Breuckelen Red)

Getting into beer and homebrewing has allowed me to meet some pretty interesting people — homebrewers in particular are relatively strange folk for the most part.  Dedicated to their craft, they embody a lot of the principles and attitudes I admire in people in general, and I’ve seen evidence of excellent homebrewers who are also excellent welders, chefs, entrepeneurs, designers, gardeners, and…chemists.

An association with a certain chemist has allowed me to trade beers for yeast and bacterial cultures — that’s right, I trade beer for the goods to make beer, isolated in the basement of a DIY lab in suburban New Jersey.  Recently my connection put together a blend of yeasts and bacterias meant to emulate the Rodenbach brewery’s culture that produces their distinctive Flemish Red style of beer, and I decided I had to get my shit together and brew in that style right away.

Having recently acquired a bottle of Lost Abbey Red Poppy, also within the style, I decided it was fate — I always try to drink a beer in the style I’m brewing on brew day.  I grabbed some specialty grains, hit up the “local” home brew shop for flaked maize and oak chips, and made it happen.  I brewed completely outside for the first time as well, which was awesome.  I stacked some milk crates, ran the hose outside, and went for it.  I’m glad I did, as it forced me to hang out outside all day in the yard, and it was a very peaceful and fun experience.  Brew Day is getting shorter and shorter, and I now have the whole process pretty much totally memorized.  I’ll post the recipes and some pictures here, and will also post a review of the (3*IPA)/2 which has been drinking really nicely the past couple of days.

The beer is named after the original, Dutch name for Brooklyn.  I designed the recipe to include some of the base malt I have left over, and added a complex array of high quality crystal malts to compliment everything.  Flaked Maize is a traditional ingredient.

Recipe:

5# Maris Otter

6.5# Vienna

3# Crystal Malt Mix (some English, Belgian, and American, mix of high and low, some red for flavor)

1# Flaked Maize

Hopped to 20 or 25 IBUs with some pretty old Northern Brewer pellets.

Mashed for 75 minutes at 153 or so, boiled for 75 minutes. Chilled down and pitched the yeast vials at 70 degrees. Vigorous fermentation around 36 hours later, it’s really kicking.  The OG came in around 1.090.

After primary, I will rack to a corny keg and drop in some medium toast oak chips, and let it sit for about a year.

Something’s Missing! (Deschutes Red Chair IPA)

With their Red Chair IPA, Deschutes promises extreme hop presence without the bracing bitterness that sometimes precludes my enjoyment of otherwise hoptastic Imperial and Double IPAs. I snagged a few from Joey in our last South Bay Drugs order and downed one a couple nights ago and another last night, just to be sure I hadn’t missed something.

The hops are there I suppose. They come across as primarily fruity and floral on the nose, a bit of apricot and apple. Where they are lacking, however, is in that sharper citrus/pine scent I want in a heavily late-hopped IPA, and their laid back fruitiness leaves them vulnerable to being overpowered by the malt, which is fairly sweet and toasty. The fact that the beige head was meager and disappeared too soon kept it from really opening up I think.

The problem here is really just that in attempting to eliminate the bitterness, they’ve gone too far and there just seems to be something basic missing. Don’t get me wrong, it’s an extremely drinkable IPA, decent body and all, and I could happily session a few bombers on a hot summer day, but the heart and soul of those West Coast hop monsters we all know and love seems to have been neutered when a simple trim would’ve done nicely.

Strong Hops From North of the Border (Hopfenstark event @ Beer Table)

Hopfenstark is a brewery 30 miles outside of Montreal in Quebec, Canada, which has built up a nice reputation amongst beer nerds for offering a wide selection of distinctive beers and sticking to their guns when it comes to style and flavor — basically, the brewer Fred does what he wants, and that’s just the kind of brewery that Brew Dog Blog loves.  There were a few NYC events with these guys last week, so luxuriating in the ability to choose which I attended, I opted to go down to Beer Table because I hadn’t been there in a while, and its the closest to my rather far flung homestead.

When I showed up I was pleasantly surprised to learn that minds behind 12 Percent Imports (who I raved about here) were behind bringing Hopfenstark into the city, and more than just a “tasting,” this was the celebration of the beer being available in NYC now — very cool.  We don’t get much great Canadian beer down here, and as I made my way through the list, I was pleasantly surprised by everything I tried.  Hopfenstark has a real knack with differentiating his beers from each other, and for not going too deeply into one “category” of beers to the point where other categories suffer.  Each beer had distinctions that led themselves to their styles — varying carbonation levels, varying means of fermentation and yeasts, lots of varying flavors.  I’ll give a brief rundown here of some of those selections, and will add, as usual — DRINK THIS BEER! It’s fantastic.

Blanche De L’Ermitage (5.0% ABV Witbier) – After completely overdoing the Witbier thing last year, and drinking an insane amount of Schneider-Weisse, it’s been kinda hard for me to drink Wheat Beers lately.  Hopfenstark’s Blanche De L’Ermitage, however, defied all of my expectations by providing a very unique and interesting drinking experience.  This is the beer that really had me praising the brewer’s tenacity and talent — this is a very rustic, not very integrated beer, but that doesn’t bother me at all.  It had all of the right peppery, spicey notes without overwhelming the banana (in fact it was barely present) and the spiciness and fullness of flavor kept it very drinkable, while finishing very dry and keeping you coming back for more.  Maybe the most “Saisonish” Witbier I’ve tried, with nice brisk carbonation, a tendency toward the browner side of the spectrum, and overwhelmingly exploding with flavor and aroma from spices.  Awesome.

Post Coloniale (6.0% ABV American IPA) – After seeing a big list of Saisons, I was excited to see styles like Porter and IPA represented as well.  The Post Coloniale is one of the “roughest,” most rustic IPAs I’ve ever had, and while I hate to keep harping on that term, there is a certain aggressive quality with these beers which tend toward representing all of the ideas the beer has to offer without much concern for balance or other typical designations of “quality” which I never really care about anyway.  An American IPA with a French Canadian via Belgium twist, the Post Coloniale is  a cloudy, intensely flavored beer with a very nice melange of hop aromas.  There’s not an overwhelming amount of bitterness present, whcih supports a nice malt backbone and is dried out by a low finishing gravity and a very nice piney, citrusy note at the end of the sip.  A little bit difficult to explain, but a very interesting brew, Post Coloniale is a glimpse into what other Saison Producing breweries might do if faced with the task of making an IPA, where the hops become as much of a spice as anything else.  Very nice.

Loulou Porter (5.0% ABV Porter) - A very delicious selection on cask, the Loulou had the perfect amount of carbonation, roastiness, and sweetness to make it one of the best new porters I’ve sampled in a very long time.  A nice Mapley nose is complemented with a similar initial flavor on the tongue, which dries out and makes this a very drinkable beer.  Not an overwhelming amount of chocolatey or bitter notes keeps the affair very smooth, and this dark, almost still beer could be a huge winner to replace any number of flavorless, bubbless beers anywhere in the United Kingdom, but I’d be happy to keep it all for my own.  By this point in the night, I’m very “warm.”  Let’s keep going.

Brewer Fred brought in a small quantity of a few bottles which he brought down for the events, and this included 3 Saisons, named with different numbers, for different reasons.  I’ll break down the two I tried:

Saison Station 7 (5.0% ABV Saison) – Thusly named because it is “made with 7 spices,” Saison Station 7 actually kind of refutes the points I made above about rustic, unbalanced beers and produces a mixture of spices, wild yeast, and malt that is one of the most complex and interesting Saisons I’ve had from outside of Belgium, or anywhere.  After pouring a ruddy orange color with a lot of bubbles, the nose has a good amount of spice and interesting yeast notes, and as you sip the beer, more spices poke out at you — is there Ginger? Coriander? Peppercorns? Some other traditional Witbier spicing? Or none of these? I’m not sure what the 7 spices are, but the soup is improved, as opposed to being too muddied up with all of that flavor.  A true Saison that is produced seasonally and just with whatever the brewer has around, Station  7 is an awesome selection.

Saison Station 55 (6.5% ABV Saison) – Station 55 gets its appelation from containing 55 IBUs, and this awesome, bitter Saison is one of my favorite selections of the whole night.  Similar in color and carbonation level to the 7. Station 55 marries the spicy yeast notes from the Saison yeast with the herbal, spicy, and citrusy flavors from the hops, creating an awesome marraige of classic Belgian and West Coast USA flavors, in a package with a hint of wild yeast, a hint of spice, and a hell of a lot of complex drinkability.  Another score.

I’m interested to see when this beer will be around NYC more regularly, and whether we’ll get bottles, kegs, or both.  I’m going to make it a point to try all of them — and I recommend you do the same.

Infected Sessions (Mikkeller It’s Alright)

Mikkeller, the awesome, nomadic “brewery” from Denmark which is actually one guy who goes from brewery to brewery in Europe and the USA brewing collaborative beers or sneaking in his own, is “available” in New York again.  I’ve managed to purchase some bottles in the past year or so since I discovered them, but most of the time, they are absent.  The new crop includes old favorites and some new ones, including a few of the single varietal hop series beers, and two of the wild beers – U.S. Alive and It’s Alright.  Mikkeller’s first available beer with “wild” yeast was “It’s Alive,” which I haven’t been able to get my hands on, but It’s Alright is described by the brewer as It’s Alive’s little brother.

Fermented with both regular top-fermenting Ale Yeast and Brett Yeast provides an opportunity to control the beer’s flavors, and It’s Alright is a successful, if not perfect attempt at an Infected Session beer, along the lines of Jolly Pumpkin’s low ABV selections.  It’s Alright pours a beautiful clear straw color and is crackly as soon as it hits the glass.  Their is a great, fruity, wild aroma immediately from the yeast that dominates the experience in a great way.  Like most beers dosed with Brettanomyces, which is capable of eating more of the remaining sugars in beer than normal brewer’s yeast (a property known as being ‘highly attenuative’), It’s Alright is very dry, and the body suffers a bit for this reason.  Just a touch more, or a bit of malt or caramel sweetness would really make this beer excellent.  This is more of a light Saison than a pale ale, but in any event, it’s an excellent, highly drinkable beer that I would drink a ton of if I were a millionaire.  Alas, as they say, It’s Alright.

Nothing like a little hate to get you back in the game (Budweiser American Ale)

Since I was running late from the Upper West Side to band practice last night, I asked T-Bone to pick up the brews for practice.  He lives right near a very competent deli that in the past has supplied us with more than enough good jamming fodder — Lagunitas Hop Stoopid, Stone Ruination, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, etc.  Since we had been discussing it, and since supplies were looking dismal, Todd decided to also bring a Budweiser American Ale, the “great savior” of Budweiser’s Light Lager empire, their attempt at crossing over into the realm of people who have actual taste in beer.  Since the beer is certainly cheap enough, and I wanted to remind myself just how good the beer I drink on a regular basis actually is, I decided to start the night off with it, pouring some for myself and some for my bandmates.  Budweiser’s American Ale pours a darker almost brown color, with an overwhelming sweet smell, with no hops or yeast smells apparent at all.  When I tell you that this beer is actually worse than Budweiser’s “standard” Lager Beer, it might not surprise you.  However if I were to tell you that this is by far the worst, least successful beer I’ve tried in a very long time, perhaps ever, wait, you probably still wouldn’t be surprised.  To say that Budweiser should “stick to what they know” is a gross understatement.  They should send me a check refunding my cash, donate 1/10 of their proceeds to Sixpoint and Captain Lawrence, and just call it a day.  An apt description I came up with was that American Ale tastes like base Budweiser which has had cornflakes steeped in it and then had a few drops of weak brown food coloring added.  It’s truly better to drink almost anything, including nothing, instead of drinking this swill.  Do not come close, do not say I didn’t warn you, and don’t even pity me for trying it.  Just let it leave your mind.

Brew Logs from a Long Lost Dog (Of Belgian IPA Failure and Kombucha Redemption)

I’ve been a long time gone from the blog but with this inaugural springtime post I hope to hop back on the wagon. We jammed a gig last night and I brought some of my first beer of spring, a Belgian IPA, which has been bumming me out as it seems to have “picked up a little something” somewhere in the brewing process. Its a down-the-drain batch, basically, which would be less of a disappointment if I hadn’t bottled a sixer-and-a-half of it with a little something special, the first experiment in which I hope to be a long love affair with brewing extra special mood altering beers.

Mashing of the Belgian IPA

Mashing of the Belgian IPA

It seems that Mother Nature has taken pity upon me for my beer failings, however, as today I bottled my first batches of home-brewed Kombucha, and they turned out better than I could have hoped for. I’ve been wanting to get into brewing Kombucha Tea (or KT, as the hippies call it) for a while and never managed to hook up a SCOBY (Symbiotic Colony Of Bacteria and Yeast!) from a friend who brews. As luck would have it, two weekends ago we were walking through Park Slope on our way to Beer Table to pick up some flip-top 33cl bottles for my homebrew from Justin, when we happened upon a table of generous yuppie-hippies giving away SCOBYs from a big jar.

Beautiful, beautiful booch...

Arriving home with my SCOBYs I immediately got to work on two batches, a regular Black Tea and Sugar Kombucha, and one I’ve been wanting to try since I first got hooked on both Kombucha and Yerba Mate, a Mint Mate Kombucha with Honey. I was wary of the Mate and Honey as I wasn’t sure they’d have enough nutrients to feed the SCOBY and ferment properly, but both batches got down to about 3.1pH after two weeks, so i sampled some of each today and they were great! The Black Tea KT I would even say was too sweet compared to the Mate, so for batch 2 I dropped the sugar down about 30%. The recipe is basically 1/4c tea and 1/4c sugar for each quart of water, but i’m working closer to 1/8c of sugar now to see how it turns out. I bottled all 3 quarts and put them back in the pantry to carbonate so I’ll post an update later on.